A reinterpretation of the Neapolitan eggplant dish using burrata as the foundation. The cheese is dressed tableside with tomato sauce that's been reduced slowly with basil, then finished with a thin crisp round of fried parmesan. The textural contrast—creamy center, crispy parmesan, soft tomato—is deliberate. Reviewers consistently mention this dish as the reason to return. Tondo sources the burrata from a specific producer in Puglia.
Tips from diners
This appears on the menu about 60% of the time. If you see it listed, make sure to order it before you order anything else.
The veal is poached gently until just cooked through, then sliced thin and cooled. The tonnato sauce—anchovy-spiked tuna purée, capers, and a rich mayonnaise—is made fresh daily. Tondo's version uses Italian tuna packed in oil, which gives the sauce a distinctive richness. The plate is finished with microgreens and a drizzle of excellent olive oil. Multiple sources note this as a standout starter.
Tips from diners
Ask the server for a natural wine pairing suggestion. Francesca Tradardi's list includes many wines that complement this dish specifically.
Polpette are the Italian answer to comfort—ground meat mixed with breadcrumbs and parsley, shaped, and simmered until tender. Tondo's version uses a mixture of beef and pork, adding a pinch of cinnamon and fennel to the breadcrumb mixture. The tomato sauce is the same ragout-base used on the pappardelle, so the meatballs absorb those layered flavors. Served with fresh pasta on the side or crusty bread for sauce-soaking. This is the comfort food finale—rare on a Michelin tasting.
Tips from diners
This is the most approachable dish for those unfamiliar with natural wine pairings. Ask the staff for their suggestion—it's usually a light red or orange wine.
The pasta is rolled by hand to a thickness that allows the filling to show through slightly. The ricotta is whipped to incorporate air, then mixed with minced fennel sausage and a whisper of lemon zest. The ravioli are served in a light brown butter sauce with sage and parmigiano. The balance between the richness of ricotta and the brightness of the sausage spice is a hallmark of Sardinian cooking. Reviewers often order two courses of this.
Tips from diners
Order this with a light white or natural wine—something with good acidity to cut the ricotta. Avoid heavy reds.
The pappardelle is made fresh daily from a dough that's been allowed to rest. The beef ragout simmers for hours with crushed tomatoes, red wine, and a trace of tomato paste, building layers of flavor. Tondo's version includes a pinch of ground cinnamon—a Sardinian touch that adds warmth without being detectable as spice. The sauce clings to the wide ribbons perfectly. Reviewers note that the pasta-to-sauce ratio is intentional and generous.
Tips from diners
This is the Michelin-star dish—order it at dinner if you're celebrating. It's slightly richer than lunch service and worth the splurge.
The spinach pasta dough is delicate—the leafy vegetable breaks down into the dough, creating a subtle color and earthy flavor without dominating. The squid is cut into rings and cooked very briefly in hot oil with garlic and red chili—it's tender because the technique is precise. The finished plate is dressed with excellent olive oil and a whisper of lemon. Reviewers note the squid's quality is conspicuous; Tondo sources whole squid from Brittany.
Tips from diners
The squid is the star here. Don't order if you prefer squid cooked longer—Tondo's philosophy is to cook it just until set.
Racines opened in 2007 in the Passage des Panoramas, Paris's oldest covered arcade, and earned a Michelin star in 2019—a rarity for casual Italian in Paris. Sardinian chef Simone Tondo took over the kitchen in 2017 and shifted the menu toward his grandmother's recipes and slow-cooked comfort food. The wine list features natural and organic wines curated by sommelier Francesca Tradardi, mostly from small producers. The dining room holds 15-20 covers; the minimal menu offers 4 appetizers, 3 pasta dishes, and 3 desserts, changing daily.
Book 3-4 weeks in advance for dinner. Lunch can sometimes be booked closer but fills quickly. The restaurant holds 15-20 covers total, so seats are genuinely limited.
The Passage des Panoramas is charming but a bit hidden—it's accessed from rue des Petits-Pères. Arrive 5 minutes early; the passage can feel confusing if you're rushing.
The wine list is all natural and organic—ask Francesca Tradardi for her recommendation. She's generous with guibalance and sources from small producers you won't find elsewhere.
The daily menu changes and is minimal—4 starters, 3 pastas, 3 desserts. Expect some dishes to not be available. Ask what's in today when you arrive; the staff will walk you through options.
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