A canonical meyhane meze that appears on every serious rakı house menu. The preserved bonito carries umami depth that becomes more pronounced with each sip of rakı — the kitchen here sources consistently.
Tips from diners
Order this first with your rakı — the salt cleanses the palate.
Thinly sliced beets pickled with vinegar and spices, served cold as a palate cleanser.
Tips from diners
Order this between courses to reset your palate.
Creamy split fava beans dressed with olive oil, lemon, and topped with sautéed onions.
Tips from diners
Order 4-5 meze dishes for two people to experience the menu range.
Diced liver quickly seared with onions and served warm with lemon.
Tips from diners
Eat immediately when served — the residual heat continues the cooking.
Tender squid rings fried until golden and served with lemon.
Tips from diners
Eat these immediately — they cool fast and lose texture.
Established in 1895 during the French railway construction, Safa served railroad workers its first customers. Under Süleyman Kızıltay's ownership since 1948, it evolved into a quiet meyhane where people don't have to shout — unusual in Istanbul's rowdy tavern scene. The antique chandeliers and period details survived 130 years of Ottoman and republican upheaval.
Book ahead, especially for weekend evenings — the meyhane fills with locals.
The antique chandeliers hanging throughout have been there since the 1950s — they're part of the dining experience.
Unlike louder Istanbul meyhanes, this one is a place for conversation — you can actually talk to your dining companions.
The rakı selection is extensive and curated — ask your waiter for a recommendation beyond Yeni.
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