Also known as kuymak, this poor man's dish from the Black Sea hills becomes luxurious when mixed properly. The butter and cheese should be whipped into the cornmeal until fluffy, not left to separate. At Hayvore, it arrives piping hot and wobbles on the plate — a sign it's been done right.
Tips from diners
Order two muhlama if you're sharing — it looks small but is filling.
Eat muhlama immediately — it hardens as it cools and becomes inedible.
The signature dish of the house and a quintessential Black Sea preparation. The rice is studded with whole hamsi that soften as they cook, releasing briny flavor throughout. Multiple review sources cite this as a must-order that gives the restaurant its identity.
Tips from diners
This is the most iconic dish at Hayvore — order it before anything else.
Dense, slightly sweet cornbread with a crispy exterior, served warm.
Tips from diners
Order this alongside muhlama — they're a traditional pairing.
Leafy greens simmered in a buttery broth with onions and herbs.
Tips from diners
Order this on winter visits — it's warming and deeply savory.
Slow-cooked beans with a smoky depth, flavored with herbs and olive oil.
Tips from diners
One of the few hearty meat-free mains on the menu.
Hayvore, meaning 'I'm here' in Laz, serves filling down-home cooking from the Black Sea region tucked off Istiklal Caddesi near Galatasaray Lycee. The restaurant specializes in hamsi (anchovy) dishes, cornbread, and muhlama — the cheese-corn fondue that diners describe as a luxurious treat despite its humble origins.
The restaurant is tucked down a quiet side street off Istiklal — it's easy to miss, but worth the search.
Come with a group to sample multiple dishes — the kitchen specializes in regional specialties you won't find elsewhere in Beyoğlu.
The lunch crowd is lighter than evenings — you can walk in without reservation.
Prices are reasonable for the neighborhood, and portions are generous.
Page last updated: