The highlight of the menu according to multiple reviewers. This traditional relish showcases the bold, smoky, and aromatic flavors characteristic of mid-century Thai cuisine. The wild ginger adds a distinctive aromatic quality that's hard to find in modern Thai cooking. The dish exemplifies Chef Thompson's approach of reviving forgotten Thai flavors from his collection of 1950s-1970s cookbooks.
Tips from diners
This is probably unlike any Thai dish you've had before. The flavors are bold and intense — sour, umami, and smoky all at once. Don't expect it to taste like modern Thai food.
The staff can explain the historical context of each dish. Ask about the cookbook this recipe came from and when it was originally published.
A starter that appears in the set menu, featuring fresh rice vermicelli topped with a velvety sauce made from generous chunks of crab, chillies, deep-fried shallots, garlic, and toasted mung beans, all slowly simmered in coconut cream. The dish is dramatically presented in the head of a crab, combining rich coconut flavors with the sweetness of fresh crab meat.
Tips from diners
The rice vermicelli is handmade fresh. Mix it thoroughly with the coconut cream sauce to coat every strand before eating.
The toasted mung beans add a nutty crunch that contrasts beautifully with the silky noodles and tender crab. Make sure to get some in each bite.
One of the standout mains that reviewers consistently call out. The dish uses salted beef grilled before being added to a rich red curry, creating layers of smoky and savory flavors. Pea aubergines add a slightly bitter contrast, and duck eggs provide richness. This is an example of the complex, bold flavors from Thailand's mid-century cuisine that the restaurant specializes in reviving.
Tips from diners
The salted beef is grilled first, which gives the curry a smoky depth you won't find in typical Thai curries. The flavors are strong and intense.
Pea aubergines are small and slightly bitter. They're traditional in old-style Thai curries and help balance the richness of the beef and coconut.
A traditional Thai relish featuring shrimp paste balanced with the citrus notes of mandarin and kaffir lime, plus the heat of chillies. Served with an array of fresh and blanched vegetables for dipping. The dish showcases the intense, fermented flavors that were common in mid-century Thai cuisine but are less prevalent in modern interpretations.
Tips from diners
The shrimp paste relish is intensely flavored. Start with a small amount on your vegetables and adjust to taste. It's meant to be strong and funky.
Use the vegetables provided to scoop the relish. Different vegetables bring out different aspects of the flavor — try a few combinations.
A historic dish from the court of King Rama V, featuring smoked fish and prawns pounded with chillies into a traditional relish. This dish represents the pinnacle of vintage Thai cuisine, with complex layers of smoky, umami, and spicy flavors. The recipe comes from royal court cooking traditions and exemplifies the sophisticated techniques used in 19th and early 20th century Thai haute cuisine.
Tips from diners
This recipe comes from King Rama V's era. The flavors are more refined and complex than typical street-style relishes, reflecting its royal origins.
A complex main course that combines river prawns with pork, green watermelon, and duck eggs. The green watermelon, used as a vegetable rather than fruit, provides a subtle sweetness and texture. Duck eggs braised with five spice add richness and aromatic depth. This dish demonstrates the sophisticated layering techniques found in vintage Thai recipes.
Tips from diners
Green watermelon is used as a vegetable in Thai cooking, not as a sweet fruit. It absorbs the braising liquid and provides texture similar to winter melon.
Chef David Thompson partners with legendary food columnist Khun Nutchanand (Pao) Osathanond to revive authentic Thai recipes from cookbooks published in the 1950s-1970s. The dishes celebrate flavors from Thailand's post-WWII era, many from unpublished family recipe secrets and royal court cuisine. Located on the fifth floor of Central: The Original Store with an open kitchen and outdoor terrace option.
Book ahead and note the cancellation policy — they charge fees per person for cancellations. The restaurant maintains strict booking policies even when not fully booked.
The set menu is 2,800 THB++ and changes seasonally based on available vintage recipes. Come prepared for bold, intense flavors unlike modern Thai restaurants.
Request a seat where you can see the open kitchen, or choose the outdoor terrace for evening breezes and Charoenkrung views.
These aren't the Thai flavors you're used to. Expect sour, umami, smoky, and aromatic profiles that are bolder and more complex than contemporary Thai cooking. Some dishes may challenge your palate.
You can reach the restaurant through LINE at @aksornbkk for reservations and inquiries, in addition to calling.
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