This dish encapsulates EM's philosophy: Japanese technique (clean dashi made with cactus instead of traditional kombu seaweed) meets Mexican ingredient (huitlacoche — corn fungus with umami depth). The tart's pastry provides structure, while the huitlacoche filling adds earthiness and slight sweetness. The cactus dashi adds umami and a regional Mexican element. Reviewers note this as the dish that proved fusion doesn't require East-West binaries — the cooking is simply very good.
Tips from diners
This is typically the opening volley — it sets the tone for the menu's direction. Pay attention to how the chef uses familiar Mexican ingredients in refined ways.
The protein course that showcases seafood sourcing and Japanese precision in cooking. Sea bass is cooked to the point where the flesh flakes cleanly and the skin crisps slightly. Parsley stem cream (using parts that normally get discarded) adds herbal depth without overwhelming the fish. White garlic sauce — aged garlic cooked until mellow — provides umami backbone. This is refinement defined: using every part, cooking with precision, treating simple ingredients with respect.
Tips from diners
This is often the main protein course — beautifully cooked fish with thoughtful accompaniments. The herb cream shows technique without showiness.
A vegetable-forward dish that shows Japanese plating sensibility paired with Mexican terroir. Baby corn (barely larger than a pinky finger) is trimmed and served upright, topped with caviar (briny, umami-rich) and shavings of queso bola from Ocosingo, Chiapas. The sweetness of baby corn contrasts with salty caviar and the dense, aged cheese. Reviewers highlight this as evidence that simplicity and precision produce more impact than complexity.
Tips from diners
This is the vegetable moment in the tasting — the chef uses seasonal vegetables across courses. Each one is treated with the same care as protein.
A rice course that blends Italian technique (risotto preparation) with Japanese ingredients (dashi, white miso, enoki). The arborio rice is stirred gradually with kombu dashi infused with white miso, creating umami depth without stock's heaviness. Delicate enoki mushrooms fold in at the end, providing texture contrast. The result is refined, subtle — more focused than traditional risotto, as if the chef removed excess and kept only essence.
Tips from diners
Pay attention to the miso and dashi here — they're building umami through refinement, not boldness. This teaches you how Japanese ingredients work in non-Japanese dishes.
A dish that would horrify some diners and delight others. Escamoles (ant larvae) are a traditional Mexican delicacy with a unique nutty, crunchy texture. The chef forms them into a croquette with panko (Japanese breadcrumbs), fries until golden, and serves with serrano chile for heat and acid. The crispy exterior gives way to creamy escamole interior. This is Chef Martinez asserting that Mexican ingredients and Japanese technique belong together, not in opposition.
Tips from diners
If you've never had escamoles, this is a low-risk introduction — the croquette format makes them approachable. The crunchy texture is key to enjoying them.
Chef Lucho Martinez's EM (named after his daughter Emilia) serves contemporary cuisine that bridges Japanese technique and Mexican heritage. Relocated to Roma Norte in 2024, the restaurant earned one Michelin star for high-quality cooking showcasing unexpected flavor pairings. The intimate 52-seat space emphasizes a tasting menu experience where the chef chooses courses based on seasonal ingredients and daily inspiration. This is refined, cerebral cooking that respects both culinary traditions without hierarchy between them.
EM is tasting menu only — you cannot order à la carte. This is by design: the chef wants to take you on a culinary journey. Embrace the experience and let him guide your meal.
Book well ahead (2-4 weeks for weekends) through Tock. The restaurant seats only 52 people and evening service is intimate. Cancel early if plans change — there's a waitlist.
This is one of Mexico City's Michelin-starred restaurants (one star: high-quality cooking, worth a stop). The accolade is well-earned — the cooking is precise and the flavors are carefully calibrated.
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