Best Dishes at Grilled Brochette Stalls at Jemaa el-Fnaa

Lamb brochettes are the kingpin of Jemaa el-Fnaa evening dining — chunks of meat from the shoulder, threaded onto a thin metal rod, and held directly over a bed of red-hot charcoal until the outside blackens and the fat drips into the fire. The meat stays juicy inside. At most stalls, the meat arrives on the skewer still hot, with a small paper plate of ground cumin for dipping and thick hunks of khobz bread. The best lamb brochettes are slightly charred but pink inside.

Beef brochettes cook faster than lamb and have a leaner taste. The meat here is typically from the lean shoulder or ribs, threaded closely on the skewer so it holds moisture. Reviewers note that beef brochettes at Jemaa el-Fnaa are hit-or-miss depending on the stall — some are tender, others tough. Stall #1 and the more established vendors are more reliable.

Merguez is a heavily spiced sausage made from ground lamb, harissa, garlic, and Moroccan spices, stuffed into casings and grilled until the casing cracks and the interior is hot. The sausage is spicier and richer than lamb brochettes, and the juices that drip into the fire create intense flame. Some vendors serve it with a small bowl of chili-tomato sauce for dipping.