Best Dishes at Msemen Stalls in Medina

Msemen is made by folding buttery dough repeatedly to create layers, then cooking it on a dry griddle over a flame. When done, the outside is golden and crispy while the interior pulls apart into thin, papery sheets that are slightly chewy at the core. The vendor folds it into quarters and hands it warm onto a piece of paper. At home (or at the stall if you wait), it's drizzled with warm honey and a ribbon of argan oil. Some vendors add a dusting of cinnamon or a sprinkle of sugar. This is the bread that Moroccan children wake up for.

A stuffed version of msemen — instead of serving it plain, the vendor spreads soft cheese and spiced ground kefta (lamb or beef) inside the folded dough before cooking. The cheese melts slightly and the kefta warms through. This is richer than plain msemen and more substantial — it's a full breakfast on its own. Arrives warm and slightly oily from the griddle.