Roncero's homage to Madrid's bar culture. The classic sandwich — fried calamari with a squeeze of lemon in white bread — is here reimagined: the squid is cooked with precision and plated with bread elements (perhaps as a crisp, perhaps as a foam), mayonnaise, lemon oil, and garnishes. It reads as art but tastes like the real thing.
Tips from diners
This dish celebrates Madrid. If you've eaten a real bocadillo de calamares on Calle Mayor, you'll recognize it immediately — and appreciate how Roncero's version honours the original.
A Roncero signature that exemplifies his playful approach. Foie gras — rich, savory, luxurious — is paired with white chocolate, which adds sweetness and unusual textural contrast. The 'Filipino' presentation suggests it may be served in a sphere or emulsion. The result should be surprising: sweetness amplifying the liver's richness rather than fighting it.
Tips from diners
This dish is Roncero's calling card — it's surprising and delicious. Trust the pairing even if white chocolate with foie gras sounds unusual.
Pair with a Sauternes if wine pairing is offered — the sweetness echoes the chocolate while the wine's acidity cuts through the richness.
Roncero's desserts are as playful as his mains. Beetroot brings earthiness and subtle sweetness. Black garlic (fermented garlic) adds umami depth — unusual for a sweet course but brilliant. Violet brings floral notes and colour. The combination shouldn't work but does, leaving you surprised and satisfied.
Tips from diners
Roncero's desserts are unconventional. Go in expecting vegetables and umami alongside sweetness. It's a final statement on his philosophy.
Madrid's beloved croqueta is here exploded into components. The jamón is pristine. The béchamel becomes a foam (airy, silken). The crispy coating transforms into a tuile or crisp. Eating it is playful — you're assembling the croqueta in your mind, remembering the original even as you experience something new.
Tips from diners
This is comfort food as art. It's whimsical but never frivolous — each element serves a purpose.
Japanese technique (tempura) applied to Spanish fish. The batter is light and crackling. The lemon air is effervescent, adding brightness without wetness. Seaweed provides umami and crunch. A course that moves across oceans — Japanese method, Spanish ingredient, Mediterranean sensibility.
Tips from diners
Lunch menus (€190 Essence, €240 Madrid) offer better value than dinner. The calamari sandwich and foie gras are on both.
Paco Roncero has led this restaurant since 1990 — now branded Paco Roncero Restaurante — from a Belle Époque dining room on the top floor of the historic Casino de Madrid (1910 building by José López Sallabery, steps from Puerta del Sol). He spent time under Ferran Adrià at El Bulli and brought molecular gastronomy back to Madrid, where it evolved into his signature style. The menu honours Madrid's bar food — calamari sandwiches, jamón, cocido — but executed with spheres, emulsions, and plating that makes you look twice before eating.
Reserve through their website or call +34 915 321 275. Lunch (13:00-15:00) offers three menus: Essence (€190), Madrid (€240), Gran Madrid (€310). Dinner hours are limited; book well ahead.
The Grand Madrid Menu (€310) includes 25 dishes spanning 'past, present, and future' of Roncero's cuisine. It's the full statement. Essence (€190) is the introduction. Both are worth experiencing.
The dining room is Belle Époque — designed by Jaime Hayón. High ceilings, warm lighting, art on walls. It's elegant without fussiness. Perfect for celebrations. Dress smart-casual to business.
Roncero has 'unwavering enthusiasm for olive oil' — his wine list reflects Spain and the Mediterranean. Ask the sommelier about Spanish whites and oxidative wines (Sherries, Madeiras) to pair with the playful cuisine.
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