The Michelin description notes the crispy duck can be transformed into three different preparations while keeping the meat tender. The multi-preparation approach — typically skin-only with pancakes, meat with sauce, and a third dish using the remaining parts — is a traditional Teochew technique for maximizing a whole bird.
Tips from diners
The three-preparation duck is served across the meal as separate courses. Ask the staff to explain the order before it arrives so you know what to expect.
Teochew braised goose is the dish most associated with this cuisine in Bangkok, and S.B.L. is one of a small number of restaurants still preparing it the traditional way. The bird is braised whole in a fragrant soy-based master stock that's been maintained and built up over time, then sliced and served cold or at room temperature with the braising liquid on the side. Michelin calls it out specifically alongside the X.O. scallops.
Tips from diners
Order this as the centrepiece for a group — it feeds four to six people as a shared dish and is the item most people associate with Teochew cuisine.
Call ahead and pre-order the braised goose — it takes time to prepare and can sell out on busy nights if you just walk in.
A traditional Teochew dessert where chewy glutinous rice balls are served in a hot ginger syrup. Multiple sources list this as one of the signature items. The ginger broth is sharper and more fragrant than the standard tang yuan version — noticeably more ginger-forward. A small serving is enough after the braised meats.
Tips from diners
Order one portion for the table to share — the ginger heat is a good palate cleanser after the rich braised dishes.
Fish maw soup is a staple of Teochew banquets and S.B.L. has served its version since the early years. The maw is soaked and braised until it has a yielding gelatinous texture, then set in a clear, seasoned stock. It appears in the set menus and as an à la carte option. Multiple sources list it among the signature dishes.
Tips from diners
This is typically a banquet starter — order it first and let it set the tone for the meal before the heavier braised dishes arrive.
The Michelin Guide specifically names the XO scallops as a must-try alongside the braised meats. XO sauce at S.B.L. is made in-house using dried shrimp, dried scallop, and Jinhua ham. The dish is a good indication of the kitchen's technique — XO sauce can easily overpower the scallop, but reviewers note the balance here keeps the scallop as the lead.
Tips from diners
Order this with jasmine rice — the XO sauce is very good over plain rice and the scallops are too rich to eat alone.
S.B.L. was founded by Charoen Piyanuwatchai, who came from Shantou Province in China, and began as a small corner shop selling deep-fried oyster with egg, Teochew sukiyaki, and chicken rice for Bangkok's Chinatown community. The name was shortened to its initials by a regular customer, Dr. Prasong Toojinda, because Chinese customers found 'Somboonlarb' difficult to pronounce. It has held Michelin Bib Gourmand recognition and is now run by the second generation of the Piyanuwatchai family. The restaurant takes reservations and seats larger groups, with set menus starting from 13,000 THB.
Call to reserve, especially for groups of six or more. The phone number is +66 2 225 9079. Set menus start from 13,000 THB for a full table.
The closest MRT station is Sam Yot (Blue Line), one stop from Wat Mangkon. Walk south on Maha Chai Road — the restaurant occupies a corner shophouse at 710-714.
S.B.L. is well set up for family celebrations and business dinners — private rooms are available. The set menus are designed for groups of eight or more and include all the signature dishes.
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