The heart of Ai Tre Scalini. The wine list is encyclopedic, with sections organized by region and producer type. By-the-glass selections change daily. Many are natural or low-intervention wines—the bar is a hub for exploring alternative Italian winemaking.
Tips from diners
Tell the bartender your preference level (dry, fruit-forward, earthy). They'll recommend something from the current list.
Thick slices of toasted bread topped with smooth chicken liver pâté, pickled capers for acid, and a sprinkle of sea salt. This is a classic Roman aperitivo dish, simple but important. The pâté is made in-house daily.
Tips from diners
This dish has been on the menu since the 1950s. Order it to taste what generations of Romans have ordered.
Whatever mushrooms are in season—porcini in autumn, champagne mushrooms in spring. Marinated with white vinegar, garlic, and herbs. Served at room temperature. This is a vegetable-focused course that still pairs well with wine.
Tips from diners
Ask what mushrooms just came in. The menu changes weekly based on market availability.
Spring and early summer dish when Roman artichokes are available. Raw or lightly blanched artichoke hearts are marinated in lemon, garlic, and herbs. Served cold. This is light, acidic, and pairs perfectly with white wine.
Tips from diners
This appears only in spring and early summer. If you see it on the menu in winter, skip it and try something else.
A Piedmont classic that appears on the changing snack menu. Roasted veal loin is sliced thin, then dressed with a sauce made of tinned tuna, anchovies, capers, and lemon. This dish requires perfect veal and balanced sauce—neither ingredient should overpower. Most reviews praise the sauce-to-veal ratio.
Tips from diners
The tuna and anchovy sauce is hand-made. The bottled version at other places is noticeably inferior.
Opened in 1895 on Via Panisperna in Monti, Ai Tre Scalini is one of Rome's most beloved wine bars. The name references three steps leading to the entrance. The space retains its early 20th-century character—wooden bar, marble-topped tables, and an encyclopedic wine list. Local workers, students, and food writers crowd the tiny bar for natural wines and classic Roman small plates.
Ai Tre Scalini is small and doesn't take reservations. Arrive early (before 8pm) or be ready to stand at the bar. Standing is part of the experience.
The wine list is massive and organized by region. Ask the owner for direction. Don't try to order blindly.
Visit at aperitivo time (6-8pm) for a younger crowd. Late dinner (after 9pm) brings out more serious wine drinkers.
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