Best Dishes at Le Baratin

Sweetbreads (veal thymus) are blanched to tenderize, then pan-fried in butter until the exterior crisps and caramelizes. The interior stays creamy. A briny caper sauce cuts the richness. This is the dish that shows Raquel's command of offal—many chefs shy away from it, but she treats it as a delicacy.

Oxtail (the tail of beef cattle) requires long braising to become tender. Raquel braises it low and slow in stock with carrots, turnips, and aromatics, then finishes with a zinging wild herb vinaigrette that cuts through the natural richness. A warming, comforting dish that tastes like home cooking done at the highest level.

Veal kidneys (delicate, mild compared to beef) are quickly sautéed to stay tender inside, then finished with a sauce made from Madeira, veal stock, and a touch of coffee powder that adds depth and bitterness. The coffee isn't detectable as a flavor, but it rounds out the umami.

Challans pigeon (a specialty French breed, meatier and more flavorful than standard squab) is roasted until medium-rare, so the meat stays rosy and juicy. A sharp sherry vinegar reduction adds acidity and depth. The bird is finished with its own pan juices. A refined, delicate dish.