Tachan's signature tsukune is widely considered the best in Tokyo. The chicken meatballs are tender and flavorful, with nira (Chinese chives) adding sharpness. The sauce balances sweetness with umami, and the raw egg yolk breaks into it. This single skewer encapsulates why yakitori matters - simplicity refined by precise charcoal grilling and a sauce that tastes homemade.
Horumon (offal) is Omoide Yokocho's calling card, and a mixed platter gives the full experience. Each piece is grilled over Binchotan charcoal until it has a slight char outside and stays tender inside. The variety of textures - from tender heart to crispy intestines - and the slightly gamey, umami-forward flavors show why this alley became famous. Purists order horumon moriawase as their first skewer.
If horumon feels too adventurous, negima is the bridge. Tender chicken breast alternates with charred leek pieces that caramelize during grilling. The leek's sweetness complements the meat's simplicity. It's approachable, but cooked properly over charcoal, it's still better than most yakitori you'll find elsewhere. Nearly every counter offers this, and there's no bad version at Omoide Yokocho.
At most yakitori spots, reba is a standard order. But at Omoide Yokocho's best stalls, the sourcing is meticulous and the grilling is fast and hot. The liver finishes slightly burnt on the outside, creamy within. Tare (sweet sauce) brushed on at the last moment catches the char. This is comfort food that tastes remarkably fresh because it's being grilled to order by someone who's been doing it for decades.
Kabuto, founded in 1948, focuses exclusively on eel (unagi). You can order various parts: the head, back fin, belly fin, liver, and tail - all grilled separately over Binchotan charcoal and finished with their house tare. Each part has its own texture and fat content. The rarity of a single-focus restaurant in this alley of generalists makes it worth seeking out.
Omoide Yokocho, literally 'Memory Lane', traces back to the black markets of post-war Tokyo. Today it's a narrow warren of intimate yakitori and offal restaurants crammed into 2,000 square meters, separated by thin walls and red lanterns. Most stalls have only 6-10 counter seats, serving charcoal-grilled skewers and offal dishes in an atmosphere unchanged since the 1950s. Nearly all specialize in yakitori (chicken) and horumon (offal), with a few sushi and ramen spots mixed in.
Enter via the West Exit of Shinjuku Station or Seibu Shinjuku Station Exit C7/C8. Look for the red lantern gateway - you can't miss it, and it's right across from the Uniqlo.
Visit after 5 PM when the alley fills with salarymen and the atmosphere becomes electric. Lunchtime is quieter but some stalls may not be fully open yet.
About 60% of shops are cash-only, so withdraw yen before arriving. A few accept cards and mobile payments, but don't rely on it. Budget ¥2,500-4,000 per person.
Most restaurants charge a 300-500 yen cover per person, usually with a small appetizer included. Ask what's available that day - horumon rotates based on fresh supply. The counter always has the best energy for watching the grill.
Pick a restaurant with a long line at opening - it's a good sign. If you're indecisive, ask the chef 'omakase de' (chef's choice) and you'll get a curated sequence of their best skewers.
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