An amuse-bouche that showcases Chef Koga's fermentation technique. Tsuya-Hime is a Yamagata rice varietal known for natural sweetness. The fermentation concentrates this sweetness, then it's transformed into a delicate mousse — a showcase of his philosophy: minimal technique to maximum impact.
Hida beef (Gifu prefecture wagyu) is grilled to medium-rare and presented alongside a potato mille-feuille — thin sheets of potato crisped and stacked. The beef's fat content is balanced by the potato's starch and the French technique's restraint.
A refined risotto where the rice is cooked in a shellfish stock, then finished with Hokkigai (surf clam) and other fresh catches. The clam's brininess anchors the creamy rice. This dish represents the core of Hortensia's philosophy: French execution, Japanese ingredients.
Tips from diners
This isn't your typical Italian risotto. The Japanese rice has a different texture, and the Hokkigai clam brings brininess that typical Italian risotto doesn't have. It's a hybrid that works.
A progression of 10 dishes designed by Chef Koga, changing with the season. The menu showcases diverse cooking methods: fermentation, grilling, steaming, sous-vide. Each course features Japanese ingredients refined with French refinement. Dishes are presented in traditional Arita-yaki and Mino-yaki ceramics paired with Ryusen cutleries.
Tips from diners
One Michelin star. The menu is seasonal, so ask what's featured when you reserve.
Sit at the open counter and watch Chef Koga's precise plating. This is half the experience.
A showcase of shrimp in multiple forms: fresh shrimp as the protein, shrimp essence jelly for umami, and a light cream sauce. The techniques vary from grilling to gelatin work, but the focus remains on the shrimp's natural sweetness.
Wine pairings selected to complement each course. The sommelier is trained in wine education and makes selections that highlight the dish's Japanese ingredients while respecting French technique.
Chef Koga Tetsuji opened Hortensia in Shintomicho in 2023 as an evolution of his previous restaurant in Azabu-Juban. The cuisine blends French technique with Japanese ingredients — Yamagata rice becomes risotto, Hida wagyu gets the mille-feuille treatment, Hokkigai clams are the star of shellfish risotto. The open semicircular counter lets you watch Koga's meticulous plating in real time. One Michelin star for a reason: precision cooking with restrained elegance.
Reservations required. This is a single-seating experience with high demand. Book well in advance.
The semicircular counter puts you steps away from Chef Koga's plating station. Request counter seating if available — this is where the experience happens.
The wine pairing is worth the extra 15,000 yen. The sommelier's selections are thoughtful and elevate the Japanese-French fusion concept.
One minute walk from Shintomicho Station on the Yurakucho Line. The location is convenient but the restaurant interior is basement-level (B1F), so don't expect a view.
One Michelin star for French cuisine that respects Japanese ingredients without losing technique. Chef Koga's philosophy is consolidation — doing more with less.
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